Swing Through The Casino Coast

So you say you're looking for a mid-winter golf and gambling destination within the United States? Lake Tahoe is a no-go; the fairways are likely blanketed with the heavy snow known as "Sierra Cement." Las Vegas can offer tolerable temperatures in the middle of the day, but mornings and late afternoons are often hand-stingingly cold. Atlantic City golf is a gamble within a gamble this time of year. You could be on the tee in nothing but a wind vest or be looking at a hard freeze or worse, depending on the jet stream.

The Mississippi "Casino Coast" is the most dependable choice, where mild breezes off of the Gulf of Mexico normally keep the air temperature near 60 degrees through the heart of winter. Add in a nice assortment of casino hotels, the accompanying restaurants and entertainment that are as endemic to the gaming industry as felt tables and free drinks, and some surprisingly good golf courses, and the result is an excellent getaway in a region you've likely never considered before.

Although you can fly directly into Gulfport/Biloxi, many travelers prefer to use New Orleans as the gateway to the Gulf Coast. A rum punch "Hurricane" ordered from an outdoor kiosk while strolling along Bourbon Street is the French Quarter equivalent of donning a lei when landing in Hawaii. It's an emphatic signal that your vacation has officially begun.

After dining in one of the city's seemingly endless supply of fine restaurants, head due east on Interstate 10. In less than an hour, you'll reach the Mississippi line. The first town across the border is Bay St. Louis, little more than a wide place in the road, but home to one of the best courses on the Coast.

The Bridges Golf Resort at Casino Magic is an Arnold Palmer design and looks as though it was airlifted from the Carolina Lowcountry. It isn't punitively long at 6,841 yards from the back tees, but The Bridges is a shotmaking challenge, sloped at 138 and with danger at every dogleg. Even the middle tees, about 6,300 yards with a slope of 132, are a challenge, as numerous lakes and wetlands provide lateral hazards, and gaping bunkers fortify almost every green.

The one-shot holes aren't daunting in length but require forced carries, and Palmer has provided two tempting par 4's. The eighth is 283 yards and the 14th a mere 315. Play safe with an iron and virtually insure a par, or break out the billy club and hope for an eagle putt. Just be prepared for a penalty stroke or two if you opt for the heroic route.

Choose The Bridges as a place to play, but not to stay. The nearby Casino Magic is a perfectly fine gaming venue and entertainment complex, albeit on the small side. The problem is the budget hotel, a very modest, no-frills establishment about ¹ mile from the casino proper. It's adequate, but don't waste time looking for a room service menu or asking about Jacuzzi suites. Plans are in place to build a more typical casino hotel, with all the requisite bells and whistles, in the next year or two.

About 30 minutes further east is the town of Gulfport, home of the mammoth, 1,000-room Gulfport Grand Casino. A plexiglass walkway straddles coastal highway 90 and separates the older section of the hotel and the casino itself from the aptly named Oasis Spa and Resort, which is the preferred lodging.

Elegant, airy and spare, the Oasis is a world away (and almost a 10-minute stroll, so be warned) from the gaming action. There's a gleaming, state-of-the-art gym and a full line of restorative therapies available at the Bellissimo Spa. It's a superb counterpoint to the pervasive cigarette haze and unceasing buffet dining options earmarking the other end of the property.

The best golf on the Coast is found about 30 minutes north of Gulfport. The tiny hamlet of Saucier is home to the Jack Nicklaus-designed Grand Bear, located in the Desoto National Forest. Available to hotel guests of either the Gulfport or Biloxi Grand, Grand Bear is a rustic and serene test that winds through dense woods. Paul Azinger and Jesper Parnevik dueled there recently for an episode of Shell's Wonderful World of Golf. From the back tees at 7,200 yards, it's likely even they had some trouble with the sloping fairways and slippery greens, conditions that belie a relatively modest slope rating of 126.

Most players will have all they can handle from 6,700 yards, with a hard-to-believe slope rating of just 121. With few parallel fairways and holes that subtly bend in both directions, it feels as though you're the only foursome on the course. The rugged clubhouse enhances the feeling of seclusion, a log-framed structure that would look at home with snow piled high on the roof.

Grand Bear is a challenging and handsome track under any circumstances, but the quietude and remote locale make this venue an unusual treat in resort country.

Another 30 minutes east brings you to Biloxi and the Gulf Coast's version of "Casino Row." Here you'll find the garish Biloxi Grand, the understated but beautifully appointed Casino Magic, and most impressively, the opulent Beau Rivage. The Beau Rivage is the only property on the Coast that wouldn't seem out of place on the Vegas strip. It's large, ornate and luxurious. With happening nightclubs, non-stop eateries, a superb theater and acres of gaming action, this is the single most impressive destination in the area.

Just a bit further east in the town of Gautier is Davis Love III's new design, Shell Landing. Love realizes that most folks playing the game don't possess a fraction of his talent, and consequently his designs aren't overly intimidating. Shell Landing is a wide open, parkland-style course, 6,500 yards from the middle markers and sloped at 124. The fairways are generous and the hazards -- predominantly wetlands -- are well-spaced.

The fairways are surprisingly lush, considering the course is only a few months old. The turf is firm and fast, which is great on your drive, but frustrating on approaches. The greens will soften and become more receptive over time, but they'll always be massive and full of undulation. The fun at Shell Landing really begins when you pull out the flat stick.

Other courses worth a look include Mark McCumber's Windance in Gulfport and The Oaks in Pass Christian, designed by Gil Morgan. Timberton is a solid 27-hole layout about 60 miles north near Hattiesburg, but why take the ride? Worthy golf, good restaurants, comfortable lodging and plenty to do can be found from east to west on coastal highway 90. There's really no need to venture too far from the Gulf waters on the "Casino Coast."